Alright so instead of rambling on the rambling thread I figured I would do it right and start a new thread lol. To answer a couple of question from the rambling thread Wes yes my auto trans is still in I bolted everything back do to the fact that I dont have everything I need to pull my whole drivetrain but anyways. What can cause me to build boost under neutral I rev it quick all the way to redline and manage to build around 9 psi and I know my gauge is off by 1 or something. What can be causing my car to build boost like. I want to look into this so I can fix it while I take off my whole drivetrain. What should I change or replace or look into. If you guys want any info on what I have that might help me fix this then ask.

retarded base timing or a messed up CAS can cause boost to build on free rev

are you using the stock cam and crank sensors for a 95?

Yeah I read up on tuners and it said that it might be timing. So much for my timing job lol. Adam yes I'm using the stock crank and cam sensor. Ill post two videos later about how much boost I build and when the WG opens. Does this mean my timing skipped or is off a teeth or something.

Well i am talking about ignition timing if it was a tooth off i am pretty sure you would smash valves because i think one tooth is somthing like 13* of timing

is it possible you moved or bent your sensor plates that are on the cam and crank when you were doing your T belt?

A really small turbo??

So the conclusion to this is I have a ignition timing problem right or what should I look for. I dont remember bending anything from the cam or crank sensors. What else can be causing me to build boost on neutral. Is it because im automatic or something. Of course I dont have anti lag lol but should I ignore this or do something about it.

Faulty boost gauge? You're not going off the factory gauge right?

If you think it's a timing issue then reset the base timing on the thing and see if it still acts the same.

*Edit: I'm not sure you're even having a problem with anything. My pos autometer boost gauge used to show 8-10psi on my 20g bouncing off the stutterbox (no anti-lag) at only 5800 rpm.

What Adam means by ignition timing is your base timing, BUT the problem with that is you don't have an adjustable cas to adjust this base timing. You can double check your Mechanical parts and make sure the cams line up fine and are not a few teeth off. So to clarity he has a stock 2ga non adjustable cam sensor so ignition timing is out oft he question.

You don't understand base timing is non adjustable with his cam sensor, so there is no chance base timing is off unless the sensor itself is dying but that would cause other problems.

i do understand i have had a 95 and a 96 and i am aware that its not adjustable but if a sensor plate got bent or something that could cause a problem like we both stated a timing light might narrow it down to a base time problem with out physicaly checking the plates themselves which require the timing belt to be completly removed. both of those sensors are pretty fragile

base timing could be off if he was using a head that had been resurfaced to many times. actually a head that was resurfaced once can cause ignition time to be wrong. thats why 95/96 setup sucks

thats why i always suggest to everyone with a 95/96 to switch over to a 93/94 CAS especially if they plan on upgrading.

if i remember he had that head redone because it ate his shirt right lol so if they resurfaced that head then i could be sure that his base timing is off.

that alone shouldnt be whats causing his problem but for about $150 ($75 for the harness and $75 for a black top) its an easy way to get rid of those sensor.