Buy a compression tester. Do a compression test. That will rule out if your bottom end is done. By the way what were you doing before this happend?

oh ok and i was doing nothing. the car was seathing done for a month beacuse the oil leak and after gus fix the front main seals it lil smoke then i got a 16g beacuse i thouhg the 14b when out so i got 16g after i put it on it kinda smoke them did not want to stop smoking

Also when you swapped in the 16G, did you replace the gaskets for the oil return line, or did you just RTV it?
Also is that 16G new or used? And don't give me a 'doesn't have shaft play' answer. I can make a full on dead turbo have no shaft play and seem good just to pawn it off on some sad bastard (not that I would do it) but it can be done fairly easily. And the tell tale signs are wrench marks on the compressor nut.

the 16g i got it new and i put a gasket on the return line but did not put a gasket down in the oil pn only ot top

If you didn't use a gasket on the lower part of the oilr return line, you could be leaking oil onto the downpipe which will seep through the flex pipe and smoke will come from what seems to be your engine and your exhaust, and its completely frustrating cause you can't seem to find the problem.

(Seems like I went through this before huh)

The best way that I have found to seal the bottom end of the oil return line without using a new gasket and crush washers (which is the right, and highly recommended way) is to put rtv on the mating surface of the return line and let it sit for about 20 mins before installing so it can stiffen up, or cure, then apply rtv to the mating surface on the oil pan, put rtv all over the bolts (cause it makes me feel better) then bolt it down. I've done this twice now with no leaks.

ok i will do that tmw i came home and check my oil i was low on it

ok today i did the conpress test #4 was 180 #3 180 #2 150 #1 190

after the first 3 times we try to do nother test but the tester did not give me any more conpresion?

150 is kinda low, I'm assuming you got a 4g64, considering the 190 compression on the other cylinders. Definitely not within the 10 percent that's required.

Did you put a capful of oil in each cylinder after the initial test to see if the numbers changed?

Also, you did do the compression test on a warm engine with throttle fully open right?

Sounds like some bad rings in the number 2 cylinder, but can be verified by the capful of oil, if the compression goes up, bad rings, if not, valves are seating properly.

Give that a shot and report back, make sure you have a full battery. And at least 8 cranks on the engine.

no i have a 4g63. yes we did the test on a warm motor with the battery fully charged. and yes we put a cap full of oil in each cylinder but after we did that the tester wouldnt read the compression anymore.

190 is high for a 4g63, stock internals?

I think its time to tear apart that engine. You can do it yourself if you have the skills, I rebuilt my engine for roughly 550, it was a stock rebuild but it was new valves, pistons, all gaskets, bearings, valve seals.

It can be accomplished without removing the engine from the car, its a pain in the ass but possible. Granted your block isn't warped.

190 isn't high for a 2G motor. They have higher compression than the 1G motors. And that 150 does suck, if putting a little oil in the cylinder raises the compression reading then the rings are bad if it doesn't than the problem is likely to be the valve seats.

ok well we did a nother conpre test we run the car 2 times up and down the block then we did the test runns good but smoke and we got 180 in all cilinders new videos


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cylinder #2 first test was 150. after a cap of oil it went up to 180. we did one more test and it was 180 in all cylinders.