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ladsm.com :: View topic - Replaced Crank Angle Sensor but CEL P0335 still showing up
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Replaced Crank Angle Sensor but CEL P0335 still showing up
http://ladsm.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1847
Page 1 of 2

Author:  Clay [ Wed Oct 24, 2007 4:46 pm ]
Post subject:  Replaced Crank Angle Sensor but CEL P0335 still showing up

So here is the situation, I replaced the old crank angle sensor with a brand new oem unit. However, the CEL P0335 is still showing up on my pocket logger, and my timing is getting pulled while driving. I started a bunch of threads on tuners and not one person has yet to help or even make a suggestion. You guys are pretty much the last hope I have for this car (1995 GST).

Copy & pasted from Tuners
Background
* Replaced the old unit with an oem crank angle sensor
* CEL (P0335) still illuminated
* All timing marks line up
* Timing retarded from 5 to 3 at WOT, 2nd gear, running lean!
* Old crank angle sensor shows no sign of physical contact with the back plate, no crankwalk
* Car does not start when the crank angle sensor is disconnected
*Image

Image

I suspect the crank angle sensor wire, ecu harness side, may have gone bad. How do I check the wire leading back to the ecu for continuity? I have a cheap digital multimeter btw. I also consulted with RRE and Glendale Mitsubishi about the problem, which leads me to believe the wire maybe damaged/separated under the insulator. While this problem could also be a hundred other things, does anyone have insight in to my problem?

Author:  ghetto_bird [ Wed Oct 24, 2007 9:23 pm ]
Post subject: 

Hey man you have your self a tough one ha. Have you recently done the motor because it could have gotten damaged during the rebuild. If you haven't then check it out. I don't know the kind of plug they have either a 2 or 3 wire plug. One will be power usually (5v) reference, and then you will have one that sends the signal to the computer and sometimes a ground. Now you will only get a signal voltage when the the ignition is on so to test you will need a meter. Get the plug that comes from the computer. You will have to open the ignition you will have to figure out which if the wire for voltage usually it is a red wire. Check it for voltage. If voltage is present you will have to use the positive lead on the meter. Then start cranking and continue checking it making sure that you don't loose voltage and voltage is strong. The car should not start. Then check the other wire there should be no voltage until you plug the plug back in. Check this out then let me know what happens. If the car starts normal then most likely the computer is going to be bad, but you have to start testing first. Let me know what happens. If you have any questions send me a message and I will give you my number.

Make sure you work safe.

Author:  RiG [ Thu Oct 25, 2007 12:23 pm ]
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Author:  Joe [ Thu Oct 25, 2007 4:06 pm ]
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Author:  Clay [ Fri Oct 26, 2007 12:15 pm ]
Post subject: 

Yes the problem came up while driving. I cleared the code via pocketlogger and disconnected the battery numerous times, it didn't work. Checking the sensor wires for continuity, thanks.

Author:  SOADweskey [ Fri Oct 26, 2007 12:35 pm ]
Post subject: 

Be sure to check for continuity through adjacent wires as you are more likely to have a short than an open.

Author:  Clay [ Tue Oct 30, 2007 1:10 am ]
Post subject:  Update



Continuity test checks out for the wires on the ECU side. Did a test on the sensor itself and the voltage checks out too. Totally lost.

Image

Author:  Synthetek [ Tue Oct 30, 2007 2:18 am ]
Post subject: 


Author:  SOADweskey [ Tue Oct 30, 2007 6:38 am ]
Post subject: 

I have a spare 99 ECU you can try out to see if it fixes it.

Author:  Clay [ Tue Oct 30, 2007 4:03 pm ]
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Author:  SOADweskey [ Wed Oct 31, 2007 6:44 am ]
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Author:  Clay [ Thu Nov 01, 2007 4:59 pm ]
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Author:  SOADweskey [ Thu Nov 01, 2007 8:50 pm ]
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Author:  Synthetek [ Thu Nov 01, 2007 9:56 pm ]
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Author:  nataku80 [ Fri Nov 02, 2007 12:41 am ]
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